My love affair with Kurokawa Onsen (黒川温泉) began three years ago. During our first Japan visit in 2016, Jesse and I randomly stopped on a page in our Lonely Planet guide of a mountain hot spring village in Kumamoto Prefecture. The bus and train journey, winding through quiet mountain ranges, brought us to what I can only describe as a fairytale setting— with traditional ryokan inns tettered along the edge of a river within this secret valley in the the mountains.
Our booking at Yamabiko Ryokan would also be our first foray into the world of truly luxurious ryokan stays in Japan. Having the six private baths at our disposal felt like the epitome of indulgence, plus intimate dining, and the beauty of traditional futons and tatami rooms to return to return to after we filled ourselves with either food or lavish soaking.
With the bar set incredibly high, this stay became the benchmark for all our subsequent hot spring ryokan experiences while living in Japan, making it the natural choice for our second Christmas in the country.
Kurokawa Onsen History Walkthrough
Kurokawa Onsen has a rich history traces back to the Edo period (1603-1868). While it likely existed before this time, it was during this era that it truly began to flourish as a resting point for travelers and a place to unwind after a long day of labor for residents. It was also the village’s remote setting that allowed it to develop slowly, preserving the traditional charm that continues to characterize the area today.
However, the mid-to-late 20th century brought a new challenge: Japan’s rapid modernization. The encroachment of concrete and commercialization threatened the very essence of Kurokawa’s character. In response, local ryokan owners owners banded together, and implemented a collaborative approach to development that prioritized maintaining the traditional village atmosphere and focusing on sustainable tourism practices.
A key element of this transformation was the introduction of the “onsen hopping” system, symbolized by the nyūtō tegata (wooden bathing pass), which allows guests to experience the baths of multiple ryokan. This dedication proved remarkably successful — the tranquil and traditional ambiance we could still feel as we walked through the village.
Indulging in Yamabiko’s Private Onsen Baths
After a brief stroll through the charming town, we returned to our inn to check the availability of the private baths downstairs. Six distinct baths, each with its own layout and style. A quick glance at the illuminated signs indicated which were unoccupied.
Exploring the Six Unique Baths
Our first bath:
Our second bath:
Our third bath:
Our fourth bath:
Our fifth bath:
Our sixth bath:
Among the wonderful baths at Yamabiko, this hinoki bath became my favorite. We all have our ideal onsen experience, and for me, it’s about finding that perfect balance of a deep soak, yet with a comfortable ledge to keep my upper body and legs exposed to the crisp air. This hinoki bath, with its built-in bench, offered just that. And with the windows framing the river scene, I could have stayed in there for hours.
Festive Dining: A Taste of Kurokawa
Dinner was a cozy array of convenience store snacks in our room. Unfortunately, Jesse and I were both battling a fierce cold, which had dampened our appetites. So we retreated to our futons for an early night, seeking restorative rest.
Christmas Morning Kaiseki Breakfast
The next morning, we awoke to a Christmas breakfast in our private dining room. A beautifully presented spread of local dishes, fresh tofu, pickles, rice, a soft-boiled egg, and steamed vegetables awaited us. We savored every bite before spending the rest of our Christmas day relaxing in our room and exploring the remaining private baths.
A Lavish Kaiseki Dinner
Following an afternoon of bathing, we enjoyed our first proper dinner in a private dining area. We sampled horse meat, a local Kumamoto delicacy, which wasn’t my favorite, but the rest of the meal was exceptional. Thankfully, we hadn’t ordered lunch, as the dinner portion was incredibly generous.
Exploring Kurokawa’s Winter Charm
Nighttime Stroll and Illuminations
After dinner, I ventured out to capture the ethereal glow of the bamboo lanterns lining the Kurokawa River.
Daytime Exploration and Onsen Hopping
The next day, we explored more of Kurokawa, stopping for a much-needed coffee. The town offers “onsen hopping,” allowing visitors to experience the public baths of various ryokan with a small fee or a wooden token provided by their inn. We also enjoyed a relaxing foot bath by a public fireplace.
A Memorable Encounter and Final Moments
Dinner and more baths afterwards.
We’ve had different waiters for each of our dinners. Tonight, we have a man in his late thirties serve us. He describes the contents on our plates, almost like a question. “Cook your meat in here and dip it in here?” “This is sashimi?” Eventually, he asks if this is our first time here at Yamabiko. “Yeah, we came here 3 years ago. In March I think?” “I think I remember you from that time. You look familiar”. We’re shocked, and at that moment, we start to think he looks familiar too. Maybe it’s the suggestion that makes us think that. Either way, it’s nice that he remembers us. We tell him we’ll be back.
After another abundant meal, we returned to our room for a final bath. I fell into a deep sleep, only to awaken the next morning. I believe I enjoyed nine baths in total that day.
Our last breakfast:
I didn’t have the foresight to take a picture of our room before we turned it into our little gerbil nest these past few days. Oh well, still a very nice room:
What a truly restorative and magical Christmas stay. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! Until next time.
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